Hyer, Maren Clegg. 2025. Textiles and Textile Imagery in Early Medieval English Literature: Traditions and Contexts. Cambridge: D. S. Brewer. Pp. x + 246. ISBN 9781843847441.
Paper · 2026 · Alexandra Makin
Summary
Makin reviews Maren Clegg Hyer's monograph on how early medieval English writers used cloth and cloth-making as figurative language. Hyer starts from a simple problem. Industrialisation cut modern readers off from spinning and weaving, so many textile metaphors in Old English and Anglo-Latin texts are hard for us to see, or invisible altogether.
To recover them, she draws on archaeological, linguistic and literary evidence. Each theme is traced from possible source traditions (Greek, Roman, Germanic, Norse, occasionally Byzantine) into English material. The themes are:
- production
- peaceweaving
- magic and death
- fate and nature
- word-weaving
She is careful with her sources. For example, she flags that sagas were written down late by Christian authors.
Makin praises the clarity and breadth of the book, especially the chapters on production, peaceweaving and word-weaving. She finds the chapters on magic and fate weaker, because the classical material centres on binding rather than weaving.
The book's value is that it gathers scattered evidence in one place. It shows that textile knowledge ran deep through early English society and gives textile historians without literary training a reliable entry point.
Key points
- The book (D. S. Brewer, 2025, x + 246 pp., £85) has an introduction, five chapters, a conclusion, a separate bibliography and an index.
- It rests on roughly thirty years of the author's research.
- Every chapter follows the same template:
- a survey of scholarship;
- continental and classical source texts;
- Old English and Latin evidence from England;
- a short wrap-up.
- The chapter titles are:
- "Process and Product"
- "Weaving Peace, Weaving Life" (the peaceweaver metaphor)
- "Spinning, Binding, and Weaving", with the subtitle "Magic and Death"
- "Spinning, Weaving, and Forces of Nature" (includes the wyrd debate, pp. 123–31)
- "Woven Words"
- The illustrations are:
- six black-and-white figures, all in the introduction, including the Maaseik embroideries, the St Cuthbert maniple and a warp-weighted loom re-enactment;
- a black-and-white frontispiece from Cotton Claudius B. IV;
- two colour cover images (the Bayeux Tapestry and Trinity College MS R.171).
Interesting ideas
- I1. Craft verbs such as weave or spin regularly map onto abstract targets like peace, fate or speech, so a metaphor can be read as a consistent source-to-target domain mapping rather than as noise.
- I2. Hyer argues that metaphors become unreadable once readers lose the underlying process knowledge, so grounding the literal craft sequence first is what makes the figurative reading possible.
- I3. She treats texts as layered, written down or reworked later by authors with different outlooks, and uses that provenance to explain internal contradictions.
- I4. The reviewer finds that a weak link between classical and English material is itself informative, showing what was absent from the source pool.
- I5. Running every chapter on one fixed comparison template (origins → target tradition → conclusion) makes evidence across themes easy to compare.
For Mova
How these ideas could serve Mova, our small open language model — its files, stages and tests:
- I1 (frames): When a weaving/spinning verb takes a non-physical object (peace, words, fate), the frame layer could tag a metaphorical sense and record the target domain instead of forcing a literal VerbNet role.
- I2 (world): Store ordered process scripts (fibre → yarn → cloth → garment) in compiled knowledge so that metaphors built on a stage of the process can be resolved against it.
- I3 (learn): Witness parsers or teacher outputs could carry provenance and date metadata, and disagreements could be explained by source layer rather than simply averaged away.
- I4 (learn): Evaluation reports should keep "no transfer found" results from cross-domain comparisons as explicit negative controls instead of dropping them.
- I5 (answer): QA explanations on fables and tales could follow a fixed trace format (sources consulted → evidence in text → conclusion) so that answers stay uniform and auditable.
Institutions
Fields, topics and concepts
📚 Shelves 3The field of science this work belongs to (OpenAlex fields).Arts and Humanities · 17,450 worksHistory · 85 worksClassics · 116 works
🧭 Topics 1Research subjects and languages the work is about.English · 2,379 works
Cite
Cite as Alexandra Makin. 2026. Hyer, Maren Clegg. 2025. Textiles and Textile Imagery in Early Medieval English Literature: Traditions and Contexts. Cambridge: D. S. Brewer. Pp. x + 246. ISBN 9781843847441. SELIM 31.
@inproceedings{makin2026hyer,
title = {{Hyer, Maren Clegg. 2025. Textiles and Textile Imagery in Early Medieval English Literature: Traditions and Contexts. Cambridge: D. S. Brewer. Pp. x + 246. ISBN 9781843847441.}},
author = {Alexandra Makin},
booktitle = {SELIM 31},
year = {2026},
doi = {10.17811/selim.31.2026.164-67},
url = {https://doi.org/10.17811/selim.31.2026.164-67}
}Updated
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